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2006

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Tech Page

Chain Maintenance

The GM says:

The Problem

Front wheel goes round, tyre picks up dirt and deposits it directly onto your chain ring, chain etc.  Without full close fitting mudguards/flaps or even a chain guard (all of which don't work when MTBing) the crap that causes chain wear will continue to find its way onto  your chain.

 

Chain durability is also affected by riding style, gear choice, gear changing technique, riding conditions, type of lubricant etc etc.

Due to all the variables advice on chain maintenance can vary, the following notes / tips are based on the opinion / experience of the GrimeMaster:

To clean or not to clean ?

Some suggest that oiling the chain causes the wear (attracts grit and then the oil/grit gets to work causing the damage)

 I would suggest the following maintenance;

1. Wipe the chain over once a week checking and lubricating if necessary, if you have a compressor / airline even better - give it a quick blast working the dirt out of the chain in the same direction each time.

2. Every 2 months (more in winter) remove the chain (top tip 1) and make sure you mark the chain so you know which way it travels around the sprockets, (the chain will wear into the sprockets, take it off and put on upside down and it will wear again and weaken the links).

Place the dirty chain into (top tip 2) an empty coke bottle (with solvent of choice) tighten the lid and simply shake vigorously for a couple of minutes. The chain should come out spotless (use a piece of wire or old spoke to remove from the bottle)

After cleaning the chain rings and sprockets (useful tools here)

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ProductDetail.aspx?Cat=cycle&ProdID=5360009508

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ProductDetail.aspx?Cat=cycle&ProdID=5360009507

replace the chain (correct way up) and apply your lube.

 Careful where you spray it

 

A note of applying lubricant; the aim is to lubricate the chain links (each one) I apply from the outside i.e. facing the bike spin the crank whilst applying the lube (at the chain ring end) from the outside of the link towards the bike.

 1. Thin 3 in 1 type light oil go easy with this, there is a tendency to overdo it, oil will then find its way into hub spoke holes and cause spoke breakage (this is why spokes tend to break on the sprocket side)

The trouble I find with light oil is that it attracts a lot of dirt and the GrimeMaster doesn't like dirt!

 2. WD40 type sprays easy to apply repels moisture but needs reapplication more often. Chain tends to keep clean however if the chain dries out wear will increase.

 3. Wax type Lube (e.g. White Lightning) clean, dry, wax lubricant, self cleaning, again good but too light for the GrimeMaster

 4. Motorbike chain wax lube A great winter lube and The GrimeMaster's number 1 choice, this will turn your chain white, the wax is heavier than white lightning and behaves a  bit like 3 in 1 oil (i.e. it lubricates really well) however the chain never seems to get too dirty as the wax repels all (and this includes curry)  

And what of the recent reports of Grimesters fumbling around on their hands and knees making daisy chains?   ...Wrong type of dust

The recent plethora of chain breaks amongst Grimesters is possibly down to a combination of worn chains combined with the fine dust of late (global warming).  My solution to chain breaks? Maintain your chain or go single speed.

GM

Brake Pads

To those with Shimano XT discs - Gadget is planning a bulk order of resin pads - likely cost is under £10 per set (one wheel), They wear out in about 200 miles - DON'T BE SHY! - please mail him with your requirements at nykh@btinternet.com  

Care of Camelback

Monk says:

To avoid growing mould in your camelback just empty it after a ride, rinse and  throw it in the freezer. You will always know where to find it and it will be healthy for the next ride.

If you do forget to put it in the freezer I always use some homebrew sterilizer to clean it out.    

Available from http://www.art-of-brewing.co.uk/

Thanks for the tip Monk

 

Inflation matters!

GM has become expert at sorting out tyre problems. Could it be the larger wheels he now sports? Here are a few tips for getting going quick.

CO2 inflation system, valve bit from of Halfords, 16gm C02 gas cylinder from The Govner at a very reasonable price.

For those who prefer not to blow their wedding tackle off there is a clever little pump courtesy of Mr Paul McCan http://www.decathlon.co.uk/EN/Product_arborescence/cycle-and-rolle/cycling-accesso/inflating-and-r/cycle-hand-pump/product_6533560/index.html#

Offending holes can be sorted on the spot by ‘Scabs’  available here http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SLIME-SCABS-PUNCTURE-REPAIR-KIT_W0QQitemZ170132692428QQihZ007QQcategoryZ109122QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

Thanks GM

 

Toothpaste tube for spares

Top Tip from Olivio:

Get an empty toothpaste tube, cut it open and open it out.  Put this in your tool bag and when you get a tear in the sidewall of your tyre you can place it between the new tube and the tear in the tyre.  This will be sufficient to continue the ride and get you home.

Waterproof your SPD shoes

When changing the cleats in your shoes, after you have ensured they are aligned correctly and you have tested them, but before you go out in the mud, get some bathroom silicant and fill in around the cleat on the base of the shoe.  Wipe the cleat itself and there you have it - no water will get into your shoes from below!!

Brakes

"When should I change my disc brake pads?" - Gadget
You should change your pads when, and only when, the TWO KEY SIGNS are present, which are: 

1- A metallic grinding/ graunching noise when braking

This is not to be confused with squealing,  this is a sign of happiness from your brakes - similar to a a two year old child seeing a sleeping cat. You are listening for a noise that sounds like your back wheel has fallen off, and your frame is dragging it's arse along concrete.

If the first sign is present, you are ready to check for the SECOND SIGN by removing the pads and inspecting them.

2- Your pads look like this:

   
 
If they look like this, then you have probably got the best out of them and can replace them.  Although I personally would look to get at least thirty more miles, and then sell them on eBay as "pre-owned".  

When you get a new pair, be very careful not to mix them up with the old ones.  I have done this many times myself, in fact I have some mixed up ones here:  

Can you help by telling me which one is the old one? I'm not too sure!!

Gadget

Lights

"Hey, Andy, Can you explain to the readers, in simple terms, how these home made lights, made out of bathroom plumbing, compare to normal shop-bought battery lights?"

The lights you have are not very bright really. I would say 2-3 watts.  We are talking the same as Monk and One-Prong, also Gadget's new lights.

You can of course make them as powerful as you like. I have some LED bulbs on order from Australia (via Chris). These are 3 watt (equivalent to a 40 watt domestic bulb). They will last for about 19 hours!  Chris uses 20 watt or 35 watt bulbs for the really bright lights. These will last about 2 hours on a full charge.

Monk has HID bulbs which are still very expensive (I'm still looking for some of these).

The bulbs are £0.67 so you can have as many combinations as you want.

I think it's probably best if I send off for the batteries myself and sort out a prototype system. I can then write the instructions for others to follow for the web site.

I think total cost will be as follows:

Batteries (includes fast charger 3hours full charge) 4800 mAh Lithium Ion

£52.91

Postage for batteries - Airmail

£12.41

Bulbs £0.67 each maybe get 4 different ones

£0.67

Lamp holder £0.99 + £0.52 + a piece of pipe £0.10

£1.61

Heat resistant bulb socket

£0.71

Postage for bulbs

£3.50

Bracket: could just use zip ties or a proper bracket is

£4.00

Switches, connectors and wire

£3.00

Bag and Velcro (Kathleen to make this) The battery site sell a camera case for $6.99 which apparently fit the batteries well. Still need the Velcro.

??

Total cost for 1 lamp unit

£78.81

My old lights cost me £125.00 3 years ago and they are only the heavy 6volt Ni Mh which are not that bright really. They only last about an 1.5 hrs now and are dim at that. The lights I intend will last 3 hrs on really bright and about 19 hrs on LED which are also quite bright. I think they will be about as bright as my lights at full charge

Battery web site www.batteryspace.com

Thanks, Andy now I understand!!